PLAIN FACE BEDFORDCORD
The Bedford cord named after the town of Bedford in England. It is a heavy fabric with a length wise ribbed weave that reassembled corduroy.
METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION
· At interval pair of ends work in perfectly plain order with the picks, therefore these lifts are first indicated
· The number of ends between the pair of plain end being varied according to the width of cord required.
· The next stage is consist of inserting marks (which indicating warp float) on the first and second picks of alternate cords and on the third and fourth picks of the other cords.
· The object of arranging the marks of the cord ends in alternate order is chiefly to equalize the lift of the ends.
· The designs are completed by inserting plain weave on the cord ends, which join with the plain working of the pair of ends.
· The cord ends float over three picks and under one while the picks float in pairs on the back of one cord and interweave in plain order in the next cord.
DRAFTING AND DENTING
· The usual order of drafting is shown here
· The plain ends are being drawn on the healds of front and accordingly the lifting plan is maid.
· In order to fully develop the sunken lines the plain should be separated by the slits of the reed
· In some cases however the plain ends are dented accordingly to the type of fineness required.
· Sometimes the plain ends are woven two per slit and cord ends are three or four per slit. The number of ends in the width of a cord has some influence upon the order of denting.
WADDED BEDFORD CORD
This structure contain thick wadding or padding ends which lie between the rib face cloth and the weft floats on the undersides the arrangement to give grater prominence to the cord.
METHOD TO INTRODUCE WADDING ENDS
· First we decide the place at which the wadding ends are introduced
· The wadding ends are raised where the picks floats at the back shown in design and are left down where the picks interweave in plain order.
· In order of interlacement of the picks and position of warps is shown here
DRAFTING AND DENTING
· Here the drawing (drafting) is done in same maner as before only after plain order healdshafts. The wadding ends are drawn and then the cord ends.
· Here while denting is done, like 2 ends per slit the wadding ends being dented extra
· The number of wadding ends to each cord may be varied according to requirement.
· The design may be arranged with an odd number of each (not including the wadding ends) to each cord but it is then necessary to reserve the marks of an alternate pairs of the plain ends in order that the plain weave will join correctly.
SUITABLE WEAVING CONDITION
· Face warp= 30’s Cotton, 108 Ends per inch
· Wadding warp= 2/20’s cotton
· Weft = 36’s cotton, 84 picks per inch
TWILL FACED BEDFORD CORD
· It is an another modification of Bedford cord structure consist of the using warp twill instead of plain weave for the picks which inter weave on the face of the cord stripes.
· Thus the warp being brought more prominently on surface.
· The construction is same like a plain face but the introduction of twill weave in place of plain is take place.
WHY CORDS ARE FORMED?
· The structure is formed due to the occurrence of force variations in structure.
· The plain order is highly compact structure here end 6-7 will force the yarn downward due to the plain order.
· And the other region contain plain or twill order with the warp floats which will not force but allow the other ends to move up.
· And this variation of force form the force forms the cord.
BEDFORD CORD ARRANGED WITH ALTERNATE PICKS
· Bedford cord are also made with alternate picks floating at the back, in which case the pairs of plain ends require to be indicated in the reverse order.
· Here we take an example of 10 end wide cord first the marks of the pairs of plain ends are indicated
· Then the marks which cut with plain marks are inserted on the alternate horizontal spaces.
· Afterwards plain weave is inserted on the blank horizontal spaces of the cords as indicated
· But in this case plain does not join perfectly with the plain marks of the pair of ends
· Wadding ends also may introduce according to the requirement, this wadding ends are shown raised over the picks which floats at the back.
· Fabric produced with these weave may be made in medium weight cotton or spun rayon fabrics for Dress wear, Sports-wear and ornamental trimming.
· In heavier qualities, It is suitable for Soft furnishing when produced with cotton yarns or for Suiting when made up of worsted yarns.
· Also used for shirting, coating, upholstery, uniforms etc.